United: 1-1/16' diameter standard pinballs on some games, 1-1/8' on others. You'll needthe manual or look inside the game for a paper tag that says.

If you really like the brighter 55's, I'd at least change out the playfield lamps to #47's. The remaining GI (general illumination/always on) lamps in the head are your decision. You probably aren't running the game lots of hours/day...then again, the ink on the backglass probably isn't as solid as it originally was.

If you have an OK/red lettergame, you'll need red #55's for those six lamps due to the way the circuit is designed, and the associated six clear lamps need to be #47's. Red ones are hard to find, so you may need to paint them yourself - or apply a few coats with a red permanent marker.

#1464's I recently got from pinball resource.

This is for the common/wider legs used on most games. A few early machines used narrow legs with screws instead of hex bolts. A set is defined as below, so each leg has 4 bolts/washers and 2 sleeves.

• two 1/4'-20 hex bolts, 1-1/4' long (20 is the thread count per inch, and is the common size for a 1/4 inch bolt)
• two 1/4' x 3/4' flat washers
• one 1/4'-20 threaded sleeve

length not counting the head of the bolt, which was originally a 9/16' acorn head bolt. The 9/16' size is the sameas the standard hex bolts that fasten the head to the cabinet. Other manufacturers and later bally flipper machines used a 5/8' acorn head, sothose are what is commonly found at the pinball parts places.

for wooden legs, also use washers on the bolts.

This is for all the 'normal' cabinet/head unit games. Oddballs cabinets don't apply.

You can also use hex head bolts or pan head machine screws which may be easier to find. For the diagonal bolts, if you want to use a washer it can't be a lot bigger than the diameter of the hex head.

On some machines it's possible to shove in 1/4' thick glass, others not. It's always a good ideato remove the lockdown bar and measure between the metal rails the glass slides on, and measure from the wood at head end of the glass to a little over the wood under the lockdown bar. Make sure the glass won't cover knob/coin chute holes, but needs to be long enough that when pushed all the way towards the head there is no gap along the bottom where a wire could be stuck into the playfield area.

Control unit/mixer motors made by Multiproducts can be replaced withnew ones.

The sealed control unit/mixer motors on early bingos made byMerckle can be replaced with a multiproducts motor, though you may need todeal with the multiproducts motor having a large shaft diameter.

I don't know of a supply for the smaller feature unit motors (magic screen,magic square, etc.) made by Molon, but those style motors were usedin slot machines, so they should be out there someplace. Fortunately,they rarely cause a problem.

See resources.